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Everest : Mountain Without Mercy, by Broughton Coburn

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Amazon.com Review
When David Breashears agreed to climb Mount Everest with an IMAX camera in order to film from the summit, he had no idea that his little expedition would become embroiled in a tragedy that would make headlines around the world. On May 10, 1996, two expeditions led by experienced Everest guides Rob Hall and Scott Fisher summited the mountain, only to suffer the loss of eight members--including the two leaders--on the way back down. At the time, Breashears and his filmmaking crew were at the base camp preparing for their own climb--originally planned for that same day but postponed after realizing there would already be several other groups on the summit. Instead of making a film, Breashears and company participated in the rescue and only later reached the summit of Everest to successfully complete their film. Broughton Coburn, a long-time resident of Nepal and a friend of David Breashears, was commissioned to write a book about the filmmaking expedition, the tragedy on Everest, and the mountain itself. He has more than succeeded with Everest: Mountain Without Mercy, a taut recounting of disaster and triumph at 29,000 feet. But this book is about more than just mountain climbing; Coburn has also included fascinating information about Nepal, Buddhism, and the Sherpa culture, as well as the history of climbing Everest. He covers everything from the causes of altitude sickness to Nepal's increasing problems with deforestation, and through it all he weaves the story of that day in May when Everest again proved unpredictable--and deadly. For a white-knuckle climb to the top of the world's highest mountain, complete with stunning photographs, you can't do better than Everest: Mountain Without Mercy.
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From Library Journal
Featuring spectacular color photos, many shots using a large-format IMAX camera modified for light weight and the harsh conditions encountered on the world's highest mountain, this work stems from a project to bring Everest to IMAX theaters in 1998. While preparing for the final assault on Everest's peak, members of the international expedition participated in the rescue of the climbers trapped by the fatal blizzard of May 1996, which killed eight. The story of survivor Beck Weather adds poignancy to the project, but it is the photos and broader scope that set this work apart from other recent works focusing on the tragedy (e.g., Jon Krakauer's Into Thin Air, LJ 4/1/97). Coburn, who worked in Nepal with the Peace Corps for 15 years and has written widely on the area, offers thorough descriptions of the entire Everest experience, including the geology of the region and Nepalese culture and religion. Also featured are an introduction by popular adventure-writer Tim Cahill and an afterword by David Brashears, the first American to scale Everest twice and a member of nine previous Himalayan filmmaking expeditions. Highly recommended for most public, natural history, and mountaineering collections. [BOMC selection.]?Tim J. Markus, Evergreen State Coll. Lib., Olympia, Wash.-?Tim J. Markus, Evergreen State Coll. Lib., Olympia, Wash.Copyright 1997 Reed Business Information, Inc.
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Product details
Hardcover: 256 pages
Publisher: National Geographic; Reissue edition (October 1, 1997)
Language: English
ISBN-10: 0792270142
ISBN-13: 978-0792270140
Product Dimensions:
9.5 x 0.8 x 12.2 inches
Shipping Weight: 3.2 pounds (View shipping rates and policies)
Average Customer Review:
4.7 out of 5 stars
65 customer reviews
Amazon Best Sellers Rank:
#582,287 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
National Geographic has put together another epic of a book, receiving a rare five stars from this reviewer team. Supported by outstanding color photographs and an array of writings by numerous writers, this is a valued item to keep.Everest is also a good resource for relevant maps, history, and an interesting discussion of the Sherpa people. Without the Sherpa support, Everest would still be a mountain of mystery.Typical of the majority of Everest material, this book focuses on the South Face, virtually ignoring the popular North Face routes and climbers.
This coffee table book is a good compilation of many of the facets of the Everest story. It leaves one wanting more, so you have to get books like The Ghosts of Everest and Detectives on Everest for the Mallory and Irvine aspect. It has interesting 'side-bar' pages which deal with the Sheerpa culture/people and their particular high altitude physiology, etc. It leaves the high altitude physiology and pathology wanting for the person who has some medical experience but is accurate on the basics. One of the most interesting ones asks, "Should Everest Be Guided?" Some details aside, and being at least an Andean climber from back in the 1970's, before there were 'toilet paper trails' to follow, I think that if one is to be guided then the guide company shoould vet the candidate with climbs on other mountains of comparable conditions before they are allowed to get anywhere near Everest or any of the other 8,000 meter peaks! I bought several copies for friend gifts including non-climbers so that they at least have an idea of the incredible history of Everest which this book aptly explains. It is a good introduction for the person following the current climb of Everest by members of the Montana State University, the Mayo Clinic, and other sponsor/participants to study the geology, climate, human physiology and adaptation both of white Amer-European and local sherpa people)etc. See [...] for more on this on-going, right now - spring 2012 - expedition. It also details some of the 1996 Everest tradegy allowing one to wonder why in the hell did those people go up there under those conditions under the political-social-economic conditions that they did? Which again prompts one to buy more books on Everest's incredible volume of tales!
I first read about the 1996 Everest tragedy in Jon Krakauer's "Into Thin Air" and have read other climber's takes on the events leading up the tragedy. This book is about the IMAX team, their preparations and motivations for climbing and filming Mt. Everest that year. There are stunning photos of the mountain, but the main draw for me was the behind-the-scenes stories involving climbers on the IMAX team. I have much admiration for their selfless actions during the 1996 Everest tragedy. You won't be able to put the book down!
For someone who's lucky they can climb a step ladder, I've somehow managed to become mesmerized by the entire mountaineering experience -- a community I never even knew existed until I re-read "Into Thin Air" and then promptly dove into another three dozen or so books on the topic. This is such a spectacularly gorgeous part of the world, and there are so many books, films, YouTube videos, etc., out there, even armchair adventurers can enjoy it -- not the same as actually being there, but it's something. And not as cold.
This is a large book with spectacular photography and gripping accounts of man against mountain. I reviewed the book through my library and found it so appealing I bought a copy through Amazon. For those of us with no desire to attempt scaling the world's highest peaks there is plenty of basic information regarding the art of climbing but for me at least it was all about the stories of those that do attempt these monsters. A book you can go back over many times.
I wish there were more photos, especially of the most notable landmarks via the South Col route. Considering how difficult it would be to haul a 48lbs IMAX camera up there, and set up the best shots, it is certainly understandable why more photos were not taken for inclusion in this book. However, I do not feel this book deserves 5 stars, without the addition of many more high resolution, color photos.
Perfect blend on knowledge to what is required to climb it, perfect pictures of everything as well as another view of what happened in the 1996 disaster..
A very colorful look at Mt. Everest from the Imax Everest expedition. Much better than the Imax movie itself, compelling images interspersed with informative commentary and history from a number of writers.Compared to Everest: Summit of Achievement this is a lightweight introduction. Yes, you will want to own this and read it more than once. Yes, it's better than the Imax Everest movie (not saying much). Unfortunately this book shares some of the superficial qualities the Imax movie had. The editors would have done well to drive their razor-sharp crampons a bit more forcefully into their subject matter, if you catch my drift...
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